Oh yeah, same here, but it’s still retro a.f.
[quote=iwillbe]the same geometry except for something that radically changes the geometry? This is a baked potato except it’s made out of pig meat and is in a bun and has relish but no sir it’s not a hot dog.
Whatever, though, if it feels nice to ride, cool.
No insult intended about second hand custom frames (if it is custom, Kelly does some off the rack stuff too, I guess), I had a Serotta back in the day that was rad as hell. If it fits for what you’re doing with it, that’s great.
So what cranks do you have on it now? Did you fix the steerer tube when you flipped the stem? You can buy hacksaws off Amazon real cheap, with same day shipping you could not have a sternum puncher by the end of the weekend.[/quote]
Ultegra 6750 50/34 and the shifting is buttery smooth. I am not cutting the steerer until a few more rides to make sure I’m good. I have a short torso and long legs so bikes are a bit hard to fit especially if I nerd out and want a certain aesthetic.
I’ll probably end up having Chris make me a steel stem. We’ll see.
There’s no disputing matters of taste, but I rarely see a road-ish bike with a ton of steerer tube above the headset that wouldn’t look better with an upward angled stem.
And again, I’m curious, what kind of riding are you doing with this bike? It seems neither fish nor fowl, which is certainly on trend these days.
this is my go fast which isnt that fast but fastish. why cross vs road bike ish is because i want to put fat tires in and i love chris’s frames
Oh yeah, same here, but it’s still retro a.f.[/quote]
I agree, and I actually have regrets. Some day I will switch this to Campagnolo 9-speed with BRIEFTERS. But my biggest regret is agreeing to cantis
I thought you sold that back to Kone?
I completely forgot that it isn’t sitting sadly in my basement any more. I seriously think I have brain damage today
It’s OK. I’m trying to go up there next month to get fenders, I’ll take some pictures of it.
I’m actually pretty sure I’ve seen it up there before, like 6 months ago. When did you get rid of it?
The bar/lever/steerer/spacer situation is not… optimal
Are you mostly on the hoods? In the drops? How much available torso do you have? Where does your pelvis naturally tilt to?
No idea where you live, but I’m pretty sure that a local gym, studio, or community center offers yoga classes. Might help with what’s going on with the bike.
Lol you wrapped the cable around the brake arm!
Look it’s a cool bike, your position while actually riding is probably fine, I’m 50% just busting your chops and and 50% genuinely trying to figure out what’s going on.
I like that bike.
What I’d like to figure out is what crank to use on my 650b bike. It’s all Shimano 5700 (except for the crank).
Rear cassette is 12-27 just not sure what to use on the crank. Obviously the nerd thing to do would be a 46/30 or similar, but not sure I need that low of gearing…also I’d want a lighter crank…
[quote=belopsky][quote=iwillbe]The bar/lever/steerer/spacer situation is not… optimal
Are you mostly on the hoods? In the drops? How much available torso do you have? Where does your pelvis naturally tilt to?
No idea where you live, but I’m pretty sure that a local gym, studio, or community center offers yoga classes. Might help with what’s going on with the bike.
Lol you wrapped the cable around the brake arm!
Look it’s a cool bike, your position while actually riding is probably fine, I’m 50% just busting your chops and and 50% genuinely trying to figure out what’s going on.[/quote]
Real talk I appreciate it. I have zero problems with flexibility or mobility, it’s that my torso is short.
I’ve gotten a custom fit Gunnar through a very well reputable fitter and Gunnar/Waterford/Seven dealer and the stack/reach that works best (given whatever metrics this fitter uses) came to 566 stack, 382 reach. My handlebar x/y is 470/670. This bike is measuring similar.
I did adjust the levers some more after this photo - I think the angle of the bike in the photograph is a bit skewed as well - I did also drop the stem. As compared to my Gunnar, this bike measures similarly in terms of the touch points. The head tube of the frame is a bit shorter so I have to use 10mm more of a spacer to make up the difference.[/quote]
Yeah, I would have steered you towards Gunnar’s Roadie or Sport, they have the most stack to reach of any readily available nice steel frame road/roadish bike.
[quote=iwillbe][quote=belopsky][quote=iwillbe]The bar/lever/steerer/spacer situation is not… optimal
Are you mostly on the hoods? In the drops? How much available torso do you have? Where does your pelvis naturally tilt to?
No idea where you live, but I’m pretty sure that a local gym, studio, or community center offers yoga classes. Might help with what’s going on with the bike.
Lol you wrapped the cable around the brake arm!
Look it’s a cool bike, your position while actually riding is probably fine, I’m 50% just busting your chops and and 50% genuinely trying to figure out what’s going on.[/quote]
Real talk I appreciate it. I have zero problems with flexibility or mobility, it’s that my torso is short.
I’ve gotten a custom fit Gunnar through a very well reputable fitter and Gunnar/Waterford/Seven dealer and the stack/reach that works best (given whatever metrics this fitter uses) came to 566 stack, 382 reach. My handlebar x/y is 470/670. This bike is measuring similar.
I did adjust the levers some more after this photo - I think the angle of the bike in the photograph is a bit skewed as well - I did also drop the stem. As compared to my Gunnar, this bike measures similarly in terms of the touch points. The head tube of the frame is a bit shorter so I have to use 10mm more of a spacer to make up the difference.[/quote]
Yeah, I would have steered you towards Gunnar’s Roadie or Sport, they have the most stack to reach of any readily available nice steel frame road/roadish bike.[/quote]Compared to which bike? The Kelly Knobby X?
I was not interested in getting another Gunnar and got the Knobby X on a whim - Built it up as sub 20lb bike.
Thank you for putting the Gunnar Sport on my radar, however. When I was getting my custom Gunnar I wanted more tire clearance so I didn’t look at that model. As a go fast it’s definitely a nice one.
Looks like a 54 or a 56 would work, guess I’ll put it on my ‘will buy if there is a good price’ list 
Gunnar in general seems to have all the headtube that Surly doesn’t. It’s exactly wrong for me for a serious road bike, but I managed to make a 60cm tt Roadie work for a couple of years (140mm stem, reachy bars, saddle slammed back on a setback seatpost).
Out of curiousity, did you spend time riding more “standard” road bikes in past? I’ve been nursing this theory that there’s a whole generation of serious cyclists who went fixie->rando/re-enactment-> allroaddirttouringbikepacking. Like, they’ll eventually wind up on an acutally fast road bike and freak all the way out.
Also I really have to admit that Waterford puzzles the fuck out of me with their whole “custom Gunnar” thing. Dudes, that’s just a Waterford at a steep discount. Shittier paint, maybe?
Cuz rustystack?
[quote=iwillbe]Gunnar in general seems to have all the headtube that Surly doesn’t. It’s exactly wrong for me for a serious road bike, but I managed to make a 60cm tt Roadie work for a couple of years (140mm stem, reachy bars, saddle slammed back on a setback seatpost).
Out of curiousity, did you spend time riding more “standard” road bikes in past? I’ve been nursing this theory that there’s a whole generation of serious cyclists who went fixie->rando/re-enactment-> allroaddirttouringbikepacking. Like, they’ll eventually wind up on an acutally fast road bike and freak all the way out.
Also I really have to admit that Waterford puzzles the fuck out of me with their whole “custom Gunnar” thing. Dudes, that’s just a Waterford at a steep discount. Shittier paint, maybe?[/quote]
no never really rode a standard road bike.
gunnar paint has improved. the paint on my crosshairs seems fine. welds are nice and clean…no complaints really. if you want to get all weird with a custom gunnar they just charge you waterford prices
anywho any suggestions on a not dumb crankset? I’m thinking just shimano 5700 or 5800 in 50/34 should do…
Also I got this stupid thing but I need a setback seatpost
yup, if fit feels good for the time being, fuck it.