Weird Build Dithering Thread Infinity: Part 2

wary of old carbon drop bars. reccomends a … checks notes…

i’m usually with you jimmy, and i get why aesthetically. but i’m not with this one.


I love the appearance of the original elite’s steerer clamp and am not aware of others that use a similar wedge or pinch bolt forward of the steerer itself though

that’s a cool, niche headset product also

the headset is v neat. i know día compe made something. tioga and rocky mountain branded stems also fit this bill but they were 25.4 iirc

These eastons are so comfy and also so light, but it’s true I could just go get some simworks or nittos and take a weight penalty. All the old lightweight alu bars I see are usually an annoying shape and/or expensive.

weirdly I think there was a nitto with the same weird rear clamp, lemme see if I can find it

edit: can’t believe I found it

oh yeah, buy that one— the only other one I can think of is the Alter

Another vote for just replacing the bars. Highway Ones come in black/26.0


arguably if you can find a 1” fork with enough tire clearance (and maybe a disc mount?) you could then use a modern carbon bar and appropriate stem which would be more comfortable and likely not heavier

finding a 1" carbon fork to fit 30s was also a weird rabbit hole. Supposedly the Columbus Minimal fits a 28, and would cut close to a pound out of the bike, which is a plus, even though I’d miss how nice this kinda-aero fork with AER pantographed on it looks.

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Yeah U rite. There are others Trek/Icon, Syncros, some other OEM-branded jawns, etc. they are definitely out there, just tricky to search for specifically.

yeah something about combining wedge and threadless makes for challenging searching

Imo, the reason that those wedge style stems died out is because they don’t do as good a job of clamping. I’d either find a 1 inch steel threadless fork (they’re on ali for like $100) and a 1’inch threadless stem or more cost effective option is get a new black quill stem and whatever shape allloy bars in black.

better addressed by a Cinelli Alter or a 3T Mutant


For anyone into up-speeding the ratchets on their sram road/force levers, Ive done three different kinds now. The oldest are the hardest as the paddle is actually 3 loose parts. A plastic bush, a simple spring, and the rest of the mechanism/frame, which sticks together. After swapping out the ratchet to the “up-speeded” one, replacing the aforementioned giblets requires a lot of manual dexterity as you are trying skewer the whole assemblege with this pin that runs through everything, at the same time as you are forcing these parts onto place, against the force of the spring, while trying to keep the holes in the bush and the paddle frame aligned. Tricky as. Doable tho.


Up-speeded with like Ratio Technology parts, or swapping in SRAM parts from other shifters? I’ve got olde 10sp Rival (both silver and carbon levers) and might like to try this.

In this case it was just sram parts. 11 speed ratchet into 10 speed early gen. Ive also done the next gen. Not used the ratio 12 speed yet because I am happy with 11 and didnt want to change all my wheels. I use their big cage tho. They say that if your plastic shift drum is red, its compatible with the 12 speed. Send me a shot of the profile and I can tell u if its the tricky one.

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This toot by Ratio is pretty good. Noted the drum in this one is white, and they replaced it with there own plastic black one. As I said, apparently the red ones should work up to 12 speed. Ratio are making alloy drums now too.

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Dammit I’ve had too much time to think about paint and now I’m gravitating towards lamer options.

Not lame imo. I like the 2nd.

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In the quest to find cranks I consider cool for my Waterford, does anyone have any experience with these spiders?

$80 seems steep for a non branded ebay jawn but whatever. Looking at running double 110bcd cross rings. 46/36 or 48/38