Trailside situations that I have experienced where you want to open a perfectly good masterlink, and then re-use the same masterlink:
Exploded derailleur or derailleur hanger. Need to open chain to remove offending parts, and shorten chain.Re-using the same masterlink is desireable because you want to keep your spare link in your kit as long as possible. Because what if you have a second problem on the same ride(especially applicable to group rides or remote locations)? Also because if using a 2nd link and then you have to buy another spare and remember to re-stock your ride kit.
Chain drops between BB shell and crank arm, resting on BB spindle. Small chainring is positioned very near to BB shell. Best way to unstuck chain is to open the master link and pull free.
In spite of my experiences above, I don’t carry a tool with masterlink tool, but I do carry a Leatherman Squirt with pliers that work in a pinch (though not optimally).
I also carry a fiberfix spoke. (my 3rd, I have onlly ever used two).
I own a hypercracker cassette lockring tool, but I don’t carry it.
I’d try a cartridge BB. I had similar issues, vigorously installed a VO French BB. 7,000km later it’s still tight. The NECO AL-920 on ebay appears to be the same thing.
French cartridge BB is the answer. I’d try it with greased threads at first, if that’s a no-go blue thread locking compound should do it.
I went through the same ordeal with a gaspipe French bike, ended up using heavy thread locking compound on it and the cups were completely locked in place… Loose.
I know i’m in the drastic minority, but I got this for taking the chain off my bike when packing into an s&s case for flight. It’s more of a concern when I’m taking apart my full suspension, as the weight is higher on that than my s&s hardtail. Last time I was a half pound overweight, and the check-in agent let me go with a wag of the finger, but my park chaintool was p heavy. Trying to lighten up my tool load, and picked up the wolftooth since it’ll also hold a couple spares so they don’t get lost in transit. Also holds a spare chainring bolt.
I had the same problem on my Peugeot. I put some loctite on it… then noticed a smidgen of play… and then I couldn’t get it off… (documented on tarck) . In the end, I got it off, and just put it back on with a very large amount of force. It has been perfect since then. I wouldn’t go the loctite route again unless it was not weapons grade loctite.
One time I sold my favorite drumset, because I was just fucking stupid. And I got $800 for it. Then it sold again, almost immediately, and I was like “God, that was fucking dumb. I gotta buy back those drums. What the hell was I thinking?” And when I forgot to bid (in those pre-smartphone days), they sold for like $550.
So not only did I lose my favorite incredibly specific and rare set of drums, but I also lost money on the deal.
When I was in highschool we moved from Milwaukee to Atlanta. My dad got grumpy somewhere in his early 40s and decided he was too old for music fun. So rather than packing it up (or finding someone that cared) he sold his perfect 1970s rosewood Sonor Kit for like $350 or something stupid. It was beautiful.
These were 1971 Ludwig Super Classics in blue sparkle, with Blue/Olive badges and 3-ply maple/poplar/maple shells with the clean interior. Now easily acknowledged to be the best shell Ludwig ever made, possibly one of the best drum shell designs in the history of the instrument.
Q
