I don’t really recall. I just remember dealing with multiple bleeds on the same systems and no real resolution.
I do know some people that have had great success though.
I assembled Hylex levers with Shimano calipers both of the times I was building them up, one of them on a Bantam tandem fop chariot with silver jagwire hose.
That was mostly to use nice icetech metallic brake pads and shiny silver calipers, but sounds like it avoided some quality/design frustrations as well?
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So, this bike is really fun but I think it would be even more fun with a dropper. It’s a 27.2 post and I’d need to drill it for an internal. In road mode we are looking at 205mm from center of rail to top of collar and about 75mm from top of collar to center of TT. Do I worry about the lack of set back on the dropper post?
It also needs a full frame bag.
IRD Drilliums worked well with Hayes CX, I can send you a set of the IRDs to try before you buy/die.
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Rode a friend’s bike yesterday with Shimano BL-R400 and Hayes CX and they felt awesome
hayes cx is the goat. they are discontinued. protect them at all costs
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time to stock up
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not bad not bad. who’s in for a group buy?
while v-brake levers aren’t going to work with road calipers - mechanical advantage too far in the other direction from the levers I have - this has gotten me thinking about if v-brake levers with MTB calipers would feel better than the usual mediocre road disc feel. Lower tension in the cable means less compression and flex in the housing…
Sent you a DM
IIRC the drop bar v-brake levers don’t actually double the cable pull — so you would still undershoot a bit with mtb calipers, but might not overshoot with road calipers
basically, why would any newly added dimension be “the one that makes sense” ?
sir this is the dithering thread
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I have some O.G. BB7 Roads in the bin somewhere. PM me if they are relevant to your interests.
I have a Tektro RL520 lever (just one) that I can donate to science if someone needs to dither hard
ok a friend of mine had a single (?) SRAM S900 lying around (which i think is just an S500 with a schmancy carbon blade) and we confirmed that it does, in fact, work much better with mechanical disc calipers than these oldschool Shimano levers. The hood size/shape is also pleasing.
So if these drillium levers from dr. welby don’t work, S500s seem like the way to go as long as I can get over the giant S R A M on the blade of each brake lever.
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I have a pair of s500s I’d give ya deal on if those other levers don’t work
These already have the logo worn off, just gotta gut the shifty bits (or hook up to dropper/bell). Sram Rival 10 Speed Shifters DoubleTap 2x10 Shift and Brake Lever L+R Set | eBay
Okay I need some help. I’m not great at this sort of dithering but I’ve got a few months to figure this out.
When I bought a used baby bike seat it came with an adapter that’s for a Yuba longtail I guess. I think I can probably drill anothet pair of holes in it and mount it to the big holes here if I can figure out the right fasteners:
What am I looking for here? Some sort of hook or bracket? Preferably very secure! But also not a total pain in the ass to remove?
- I presume you don’t want to just drill new holes in the deck?
- What’s the underside of the deck look like?
I’d say option #1 is first choice.
Option 2 would be to use pieces of flat bar on the underside of the deck that spans from right-left across a pair of new holes in the metal bracket. Drill the flat bar too, so it clamps the deck when bolted.
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I mean my preference is to not drill the deck any more than it is already drilled but I guess I’ll keep thinking on it. This is definitely a WWJD* situation though…
*What Would Jimmy Do
i mean, i’d trust jimmy with my kid’s safety. probably more than i’d trust myself
tbh
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