Camarata paint job for maintenance
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Abuse.
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yes thank you.
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Swapped out the Jones’ Ergon SMC3 saddle with the company’s new SMC Sport Gel model. The latter has a slightly deeper channel, shorter nose, and thin, gel inserts.
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Tire swapped sup’s bianchi from 40mm Mavics to purple 32mm slicks
Also included a bonus pic of my crowning achievement: the shortest front brake housing ever
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Nice, shoulda just used a v brake noodle dood
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Yes! more dithering ensues…
got the RX800 dangler on, in the lowest gears the cage is slanted away from the centreline of the bike in a way I’m not used to seeing:
(yes I know the chain is on the wrong side of the keeper tab here)
initial impressions: shifting into the 40t is fine, shifting out of it kinda sucks— seems to require going up two clicks and then down one to get to the 35t. shifting into the 11t isn’t great but tbh I rarely use it so nbd. everything else is fine and shifts proper snappy. might even adjust the range to bias toward low gears a little bit. had to trim the pusher a touch due to chain rub in the lowest gear, didn’t affect the operation of the fancy cam pusher.
Sounds like too much B tension is part of the problem.
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I’ll try adjusting it, I can’t back it off much because the upper guide pulley hits the cassette. chain is sized to large-large +2 per shimano plus a half needed to get the inners in the right spot.
Maybe 1 link too long. I’ve seen one extra link + too much B appear normal visually but work poorly because of the additional tension required to keep the pulley away from the largest cog.
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Fixed that for you
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Huh.
I think most of my dangler cages look like that and I always size chains on small/small which seems to result in a longer chain (right?).
so this may be a result of stuffing the 40t into a system designed for 34-36, I have it set to the minimum amount of B required to keep the dangler off the lowest gear:
update: got it! removed a full link; it definitely helped the small-cog tension situation. turns out I had too little B and that was causing the angle of the dangle to be too great coming off the 40t into the 35. shortening the chain and adding a little extra B worked perfectly.
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Just for practice I gutted my sram red 10spd left shifter to compare giblets with the hydro rival ones I have for my OPEN. All parts appear identical except the paddle. Rival is smaller but heavier. Obviously not made for pulling apart, but it all came back together well. Hopefully will install into the Hydro force tomoz and cure it of it’s pathetic 1x-ways.
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Nice to know the 1x shifter can be modified to run a dropper in this case, without being misleading
Anyone know if the right hand 10sp shifters can run 11sp guts? The S700 shifters seems to be the weird official hybrid product
That would be interesting to know. I’m looking forward to seeing how installing into the hydro body goes, cos it’s all about skewering it all on the central pin, it hopefully will be easy to access because obviously there is nothing in there and I should be able to grab the pin with some pliers. I’m not sure how that would go if I was trying to replace existing internals, as they would be covering the pin, and access could only come from the front, which would be behind all the hydro shizzle, and be a major pain in the arse. Pushing the pin out from the front on the 10 sp version is doable but tricky as fuck.
I didn’t even know there was a 10 spd hydro. Looks like thats a yes. A fresh comment on Padraigs post. You got a source of fresh internals?
I have had a 2x11 GX dangler and shiftmate on my desk for a few weeks. Last week riding to work the Rival22 on my bike decided to spontaneously die while literally JRA (I had knocked my bike over twice in the shop in the previous week and likely damaged the hanger).
Finally installed it today and rode home.
10/10 works great. Setup was easy and took zero fussing with to dial in shifting. If anything, I think it shifts crisper than the Rival derailleur (and definitely better than the 10s GX I had before). Nice to be back on a clutched derailleur.
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