Threw the new stem in the fuck around bike and trimmed the steerer in the new old fork, assembled it, marked it and began to cut it conservatively with room for some spacers. Somehow missed the mark by a full cm. Stem and all fits with about 2.5mm of clearance for a top cap. Well, okay then.
Arbitrarily picked a Renthal stem because that’s what the kids seem to be into these days. It’s amazingly light for as burly as it is.
Also whipped out my DAG2 and went to work on the CAAD10. Seems the mech cage wasn’t bent that badly, but the hanger was proper fucked. I just got in a spare, but I didn’t want to use it if I didn’t have to. Messed with it a for a good 15m over bending it a couple times. Didn’t break though, so that’s good.
Feeling optimistic, I pulled the cranks and the creaking bottom bracket. Cleaned it all up and took a die grinder to the inside to make clearance for internally routed Di2 wires so I can install the one-piece Hambini jawn.
CAAD10 is all back together and shifting fine. Mech cage still looks bent to me and new parts are on the way, but it seems to be shifting fine. I’ll likely pull the mech apart, compare new to old, wack the old into a similar shape to the new, install the new, and keep the old as spares.
Not even in the picture but I zip tied an old fender onto this braze-on-less frame.
Love the basket shadow, hate when my light casts a wheel shadow, but love this basket shadow.
I don’t know enough about bikes to understand it but when I got this bike it rode like ass, I lied to myself about it because I was in like $500 for it. Since I swapped the bmx style fork for this longer a2c surly, slammed a 50mm stem and put 40mm risers on it…its heaven. The most fun fixed gear I have ever had. It’s a fucking blast to ride.
Some Specialized nonsense where the crown race sits a cm-ish above where it should, making it so new fork rubs on frame. I guess I gotta get a new frame now.
The fucked up part is I vaguely remember pulling the fork and seeing this like 5+ years ago. But then I forgot and thought I could just throw a normal fork on there.
The other day I smashed my rear mech going OTB at 1MPH, got that all fixed up. mech is fine, hanger was tweaked. Straightened, got it shifting perfectly, threw a new chain on, got one ride, and then yesterday, leaned it against a wall and it went over in a special kind of way in that it sort of elevated the whole rear of the bike, and then the whole thing came down on the rear mech. Was on carpet though, so I didn’t sweat it.
Rolled out at 0530 this morning and shifting was fucked. Grabbed the mech and gorrilla’d it into shape well enough to finish my ride. Just finished aligning it and it’s shifting perfectly again. Now I’m staring at it, waiting for it to fall over.
Anyone know how many times you can cold set these replaceable derailleur hangers?
I wouldn’t sweat it. If the old hangler suffers a RUD incident then get a new spare on the way, but it’ll probably be fine and you’ll never even use the spare you’ve got unless you keep bending it 2x a day.
i’m confused by this pic. that fork looks like it has an integrated crown race but it also looks a little tall. are you trying to set a separate crown race on the fork?
Specialized has a real knack for making frames and forks that don’t go together with any other frames or forks. I don’t own any Big S but it makes me mad. Worked on a buddy’s jiggle fork setup, and just wow.
That’s a pic from eBay of a similar Specialized fork. I’m not sure exactly which part you’re saying is the integrated crown race.
You see how there’s like a cm of carbon between the shoulder of the fork and where the crown race is sitting? That’s making it so the crown race rides higher than on a normal fork. And the frame is built to accommodate this.
not sure what it looks like under the metal crown race in that pic, but a lot of carbon forks have an integrated crown race- that is, the crown race is made of carbon and integral to the fork
edit: you posted like a second before me. unless the actual bearing seat in the intended bike’s head tube is super recessed, my guess would be that tapered carbon section is supposed to mate directly with the headset lower bearing. otherwise it would stick out really far etc.
Here’s a weightweenies thread that maybe explains it:
The guy was able to get an adapter from SpecialiEd years ago. Probably no longer supported. I might check at my old shop this week and see if i can look at the Spec small parts page
Spent the afternoon swapping out the front end from my Tallboy onto the Flash. Then found the Fox steerer was too short. Found an old Rockshox Recon to put on. Panicked thinking I had no QR wheel so converted a 15mm TA wheel to QR with two sleeves before realizing I did have a QR wheel. Dork. Swapped over the disc brakes and rear X9 10 speed derailleur too. Took it for a 5 hour ride in a gale today. Worst wind I’ve ridden in. Rear derailleur kept locking forward so riding in the big ring was the only thing that stopped it. A bit tall in places. Position is very upright so will probably put on a longer stem so I can use bar ends and aeros to give me more hand positions. Probably will put on a less wide more flatter bar. Annoyed at the lack of frame triangle for my frame bag, but at the same time happy that it will still fit the same one I had on my Karate Monkey and XTC. I might look for something that I can mount in front of the seat post. Been trialling the Spez power saddle, and while it’s pretty good, I can’t see it replacing the B-17 for me, it feels so damn good.
