What did you do to your crosscheck today?

Dickason_Daniel · January 15, 2021, 11:20pm

Monkey. @Face, nah I watched a video like 3 times. Might watch a different video?

Face · January 16, 2021, 12:06am

Set lower limit. Pull as much slack out of cable as possible and attach with the weird little sideways screw all the way out. Turn the weird sideways screw thing in until you have trim in small ring. Shift to big ring and set high position with ‘limit’ screw. Fine tune trim with weird screw. Clearance for high and low is 0.0-0.5mm iirc

adem · January 16, 2021, 12:35am

this reddit post and the attached imgur album were really helpful to me for understanding how they work.

VT_regularbike · January 16, 2021, 1:05am

I always set low limit a little loose pull cable tight by hand then use the limit screw to do the final tensioning on the cable, then set the high limit. Usually works pretty good. ESP on the newer mech groups that need a pretty high cable tension to really work nice and crisp.

Dickason_Daniel · January 16, 2021, 3:16am

I’ve got it okay now. Not amazing but not bad.
used this video:

jeffro · January 16, 2021, 3:32pm

I hate setting up FDs so much.

Bootus · January 16, 2021, 3:48pm

That weirdo pusher makes me have to RTFM multiple times anytime I mess with it. Worth it tho.

anon24974279 · January 16, 2021, 5:15pm

Glad I avoided these and stuck with the old style. Why are they doing this? What is this all about? Where are we going?

Face · January 16, 2021, 5:26pm

They work really well when adjusted correctly.

earwig · January 16, 2021, 8:11pm

And if you follow the manual, it’s easy to adjust them correctly. It’s just completely different from how you adjust all previous FDs.

anon24974279 · January 17, 2021, 12:39am

Bah humbug

adem · January 17, 2021, 2:05am

Very light shifter feel, nothing behind the seat tube that can interfere with the tire with short chainstays, option of full housing to the derailleur, and a cable tension adjust screw right on the derailleur so you don’t need to install an in-line adjuster if you’re using full housing.

Like everyone says you really need to RTFM but once set up, they shift really well.

anon24974279 · January 17, 2021, 2:06am

Hmm okay those are some pretty good benefits. For me, more appealing than that it shifts really well.

earwig · January 17, 2021, 4:11am

Also the limit screws are finally hex-head, rather than JIS crosshead. Of course, I just stocked up on JIS bits.

Emor_please · January 18, 2021, 3:28pm

Rode it for an entire warm wet week in Minnesota in January without rinsing off anything afterwards

I nuked this motherfucker

Bootus · January 18, 2021, 4:23pm

Swapped out the upgraded Shimano v-brakes on the Katu for the stocks ones. The Shimanos will go into a bin for use on the old Stumpjumper frame if I ever decide what to do with it.

cheese · January 18, 2021, 5:18pm

why wouldn’t you keep the nice brakes on the katu until you need to pull them for another project?

Bootus · January 18, 2021, 7:25pm

You ask as if I do rational bike things.

I’d been thinking of undoing some upgrades on that bike anyway. Pretty sure I liked it better before I started messing with it.

Emor_please · January 19, 2021, 4:56am

Riding home, the ancient dangler wouldn’t downshift, too corroded gunked. Also the rear v-brakes are salt-fucked and seized so I’m riding them unhooked like a serious fuckup.

So on top of trying to stay upright while navigating gnarly rippled chunky ice, I’m trying to feather the front wheel down hills so I don’t wipe by braking too hard AND I’m kicking the dangler to get it to downshift.

This bike is a physical manifestation of my mental health and general well being.

Master_Stabby · January 19, 2021, 5:16am

I just replaced my chain and cassette after 9 months of fuckery. I think my chainrings aren’t too sharktoothed, and my dangler isn’t too fucked, and I just replaced the shifter, but who knows.
The sea spray does a number on everything.