What about some coiled wire? Like a telephone handset.
Oh right I always forget there are a lot of smaller, worse brands out there. Iām looking at the EA90 cranks and Raceface BB and seeing lots of plastic where Iād like to see aluminum or steel, but time will tell if itās actually a problem.
Iām going to try again with this setup this morning, see if I can get it to have the right amount of play before preloading by means of my own guesswork. As previously mentioned, the supplied parts donāt work together as the instructions dictate, so Iām using my best judgement.
The Hellbender seems not unreasonably priced compared to CK, and if itās the same quality level as their midprice headsets, then Iām happy to set and forget for $120
In my experience, plastic is better in these circumstances. Plastic inner sleeve seals better because it can conform to where it fits into the cups better. Those plastic dust covers work well too. For whatever reason how they work as a labyrinth seal seems to do better than the rubber seals on a wheels mfg unit (or similar).
I only wish they used undersized bearings and a derlin top hat seal like the 2nd gen Sram PF30 units.
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the plastic sleeve for the Raceface bb had to go, it was the wrong size for the bottom bracket shell. I think someone may have mixed and matched wrong when tossing parts into the box.
Plasticās ability to usefully deform to seal things is great, but for bb spacers and threaded preload rings? I kinda wonder if itās the ideal material
Ah yes. The Easton version has the correct sleeve.
You definitely want to get one in there if you can. In the worst of covid times I had to trim some down and sand them to fit. Definitely worth the effort.
The early Cinch preloaders were alu, and I have seen some plastic ones crack from over tightening. So be careful. And if you have to turn it more than twice you shone shim it first.
I horde the aluminum spacers that come with Sram stuff and swap them in when I have the chance, but Iāve never actually seen a plastic spacer fail on one of these.
Fix the internal sleeve and probably yolo for 6-10k kms.
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yeah, setting it up sleeveless doesnāt seem ideal. I whittled it down a little but it was still bulging so I yoloed it. Iām about to take the whole thing apart again, so if I didnāt throw the sleeve away, Iāll try taking off a little more.
The bb shim situation is totally baffling. I am within a mm of the correct installed width, and itās clearly way too wide, like the spindle length supplied to me differs from what they were working with when drawing up installation instructions.
Itās pretty frustrating, but if I can get it all together correctly enough, I guess Iāll just ride it for a while and hope for the best.
Thanks for the insight into this stuff, itās good to know that Iām not totally off base.
I want to say a typical install of an Easton crank on a 68mm shell is with one 2.5mm spacer on each side. You MIGHT then add 1-3 of those .1(?)mm plastic shims to minimize how much you have to thread the preloader out. I assume the extra spindle and spacers to allow for some sort of PF383 or (pre- @ProCracknfailBro ) Cannondale shenanigans I have not encountered. But yeah, itās dumb.
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Probably correct, and donāt forget BBRight. Press fit messes with so much because unlike bb30 itās referencing the face of the shell and the concentricity of the shell so any lack of control on those surfaces can make things dumb. Spacers and adjustable preload were in crank manufacturers best interest.
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In my stand this weekā¦ PFBBRIGHT and a PF30A Supersliceā¦ both getting Shimano cranks. Guess which one had the WRONG bottom bracket installed by a pro riderās shop and had not even close to enough spindle in the HT2 cranks that came off?
Thank you for your service trying to fix this kind of shit.
If every other crank company would just commit to 24 or whatever the fuck DUB is the world would be a better place.
I hope your predecessors now see their error in using a 6806 bearing and not designing room for some derlin between the race and spindle.
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itās from a company called 7Roads in western Ukraine. might be out of stock for the foreseeable futureā¦
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I really like the light up high for better visibility but yeah probably gonna stick the light on the bosses at the top of the seatstay - because I am absolutely going to catch that loose taillight wire on something, somehow, and tear the wiring out
with a 2.5 on each side the ds crankarm bolt was pulling the preload against the dustcap, which seemed wrong. With a single 2.5 on the nds, the preload needed about two turns.
I whittled and sanded the internal bb sleeve down, but I think Iām going to replace the bottom bracket with something I trust.
This whole thing has been an expensive and frustrating waste of time and money. My advice to anyone considering Easton cranks or bottom brackets: look elsewhere.
So whatās good for t47 30mm bbs?
Youāre still going to be messing about with spacers with any BSA30 bottom bracket. Sad but true.
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If it is an 86 or 92 MM shell I would get the Token T47V386. Token stuff punches above its weight in general and all the fancy WheelsMFG/Enduro ones are not going to last any longer but will cost 3-5x the price.
Road frame, 68
it was the combo of bad spacer advice in the installation instructions, cheap nylon preload ring, and incorrect sleeve. The cranks seem as if theyād be ok with a nicer (Cane Creek Eewings) preload, and the bottom bracket would work better if it returned to the hell that spawned it
JBI has an Origin8 branded Token (older design) that is decent especially for the price. Of all the fancy pants one the Cane Creek Hellbender is the only one I would bother with. T47 is such a lousy āsolutionā IMO. Everyone was trying to find a way to make 30mm spindle cranks less of a liability when they should have just been making 30mm spindle cranks a thing of the past.
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Damn.
Had seen that one and thought it was perfect until I saw where it was from. Bummed.
after six years of neglect I decided to do some upgrades to the family bike.
ordered some of the foot rest fittings that Iāve been wanting since I pulled off the yepp baby seat (four years ago). even though the website says they fit āall edgerunner modelsā I must have an atypical or prototype model because they are about 5mm too short to fit. god damn it
I think we are going to have to DIY them, anyone want a set of $150 edgerunner foot rests that are scratched up from me trying to install them?
then I went to work on my polyvalent and discovered that the lowrider racks I had on there are NOT compatible with the Hayes CX brakes I got. so I busted out the Tubus Tara rack which do workā¦ but the orcrack interferes with the cross bar. GOD DAMN IT
thatās enough bikes for today, I hate them
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