Speaking of which our Bullitt is due for some cleaning too 
It sure is.
In terms of what I did do my eBullitt last week, I took it to the shop because it was making not so good noises.
They ended up overhauling the Nexus 5 IGH (take apart, clean, fluid bath). Noise is gone, but they said it was pretty gross / rusty inside.
- The bike is ~13 months old / 4000kms.
- Dealers Manual suggests fluid bath every 5k afaik.
- Shop told me at our 3 month courtesy inspection I should do hub service every year if we ride often. Otherwise if less often just do 2000-3000km.
The mechanic was very pleasant, but also kind of saying but not saying it’s my fault the hub looks bad inside - I should have had it serviced a long time ago. They suggested now I should have had the first hub service after 1000km and then every 2000km after that
feels not-so-robust. Or the mid-drive just beats these hubs up?
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if i remember correctly, the igh dont really have the best factory lube and grease. it might be happier now if they really slathered it in there?
Could be - guess i’ll report back in 6 months 
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I think mid-drive can be rough on drivtrains because of the abrupt application of power? Like it yanks more than a hub motor would or something?
I also need to overhaul my longjohn, I’m considering asking my landlord if I can use a hydraulic lift in his secret vintage sports car racing garage.
That part makes sense - I didn’t think it would negatively affect water ingress or efficacy of lubricant tho.
I was a bit surprised the recommended service internal is so short on these hubs. I had an Alfine 8 on the muscle Bullitt that I ignored for 5 years and it kept ticking. I assumed the eBike specific version would be even beefier.
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our e-bullitt has a rear derailleur. I am assuming that when the time comes to change cassettes it will be an absolute ordeal to get the old one off due to freehub biting exacerbated by the the motor.
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What I did to the Lorry today was ride it to work, along which I felt a weird catch/hesitation on the left side every crank revolution and it got a little worse by the time I got to the office. It felt fine going backwards not under load, so I immediately suspected the worst and started shopping for replacement torque sensing bottom biscuits. Slightly more inspection revealed that the left crank arm was so loose it was moving on the spindle. So I tightened that bolt and made sure the DS was tight too (it was).
Trued the rotor and moved the inner pad in a couple of clicks on this guy
Front brake feels better. But why does this exist
I need to get rid of the creak!
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mine came off super easy, no bite marks evident at all. Stock rear hub.
I greased it before I put the new one on …that’s a thing people do right?
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Rechecked the crank on the Lorry after getting a similar but different feeling on the ride home. Pulled the arms to check the cups, which weren’t tight but not real loose either. Tightened the cups, reinstalled the arms, and the play at the spindle is still there. Back to shopping replacement BBs. Gonna yolo in the meanwhile as long as one of the arms doesn’t fall off.
Pretty 
about that BB lasting only 194 miles.
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My experience with them in the wet is pretty good.
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Dropped off the Jones to have the rear brake mounts faced. It’s been an issue since day one, but I didn’t feel like sending the frame back to Jones building up the bike.
Update: sub-24-hour turnaround; IS tabs and IS-to-Post adapter both faced (and rotor trued).
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Part of me thinks those bars on my commuter would be fantastic but then I spent some time yesterday doing 2005-era “messenger” sketchy playing in traffic and I felt like my current 68cm commuter bars were a little on the wide side for those shenanigans.
So, the wide boys ok for lane splitting and dodging peds or too much?
Also I managed to get the WTB byways installed tubeless very easily. It was not the relentless shit show that the rub my arse tires were
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Please trim your cable and put a tip on it
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