I put the lever on a handlebar clamped in a stem clamped on a fork with the fork held in a vice with the caliper all the way across the room on the floor with the hose pretty straight at like a 30* angle.
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put gears on my all city cross check and replaced the shitty headset with a new pull off from my partners omnium
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There it is
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started my spring overhaul and had a rough time:
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I got fancy ice tech rotors, but I forgot that the stupid Hayes brakes aren’t compatible with them. I think I am going to buy some shinanos tomorrow since I have two sets of expensive rotors I can’t use
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I stripped the head of the rear through axle, which was smaller due to it being a trailer hitch axle. I guess I will get some screw extractors tomorrow? other tips for removing it?
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rattle canned my front rack and it is SO UGLY haha
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1: do they hit the pad or the caliper? I thought they clear once you clip the pad handle thing.
2: is it stripped because it’s stuck? Try to grab it with pliers or something else. Screw extractors aren’t for stuck hardware, just stripped or broken that can otherwise move pretty easily.
3: pics please. Love rattle canned rack.
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Let’s see
- the tabs on the pads are oriented down on these brakes and hit the spider on this set. on the other set, they hit the cooling fins.
edit: oh, I can just clip off the tabs, DUH, low reading comprehension tonight!
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I’ll try this tomorrow morning. a contributing factor is salt so everything is slightly corroded, though the front axle which uses 6MM broke loose without a lot of effort. should I just get regular pliers and crank on it?
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needs a few more coats, you can expect photos soon. my daughter picked neon green. I spent about 30 minutes sanding it prior to painting but left a lot of rust and old black paint on because: it was not fun, and YOLO
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love to see a rack resplendent in Evening Grinch Fur
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There’s a tool for getting studs out where you can’t get any purchase on wrench flats. Lemme see if I can find one.
You could also thread on two nuts and loosen the whole thing by turning to bottom nut in the stack since it’ll be locked against the upper nut
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I guess I could file flats and use a big wrench
See my edit, or maybe one of these would work https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W83203-Stud-Extractor/dp/B01GGV1UWI
What axle / trailer is that?
Did you take off the drive side first?
It’s a Robert axle project TA. there is nothing on the other side to remove
I think the stud extractor will definitely work
I’ve used a screw extractor on an alloy suspension pivot bolt of similar size, but it was tenuous.
The stud extractor is probably your best bet.
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Old version? New ones have a hole in the side of the flange. So you took the other one off the other side. Seems really weird that it could get that tight. If you’re committed to trashing it try vise grips. If you want to save it do the two nuts.
It’s already trashed because the Allen interface is trashed
I bought this maybe 10 months ago. I probably overtourqued + salt
Do the bobbins thread on or they’re held upon with a nut? I do see any threaded ones on the sight. Just curious the difference
Stud extractor pulled it out in about one second
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