What did you do to your crosscheck today?

I swapped the stock fork on the drop bar Orbea for a Spork. The fender is attached with a zip tie at the crown until I can get to an Ace or Lowes.

@EndpointBraden what length of crown bolt do y’all use on the Spork 3? I’m guessing I need about an 80 mm.

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Shifts much better than I anticipated!


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I have had some pretty crap experiences with sram jockey wheels I gotta say. Shimano not so much.

the one bike hoarder thing I did that I don’t regret is buying like ten packs of replacement shimano jockey wheels on the cheap so that I can always easily refurb whatever old RD comes my way

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Maybe I should check the rest of my bikes now.

This one does see the worst conditions and the most kms, though.

Will Shimano deals work in Sramdangles without any fuckery?

Ive never tried. I’d be surprised if they were happy mix n matching. There have been many weird sram jockey wheels over the years.

Grand Jubilee?

I installed some extremely bright, extremely German spoke reflectors on my front wheel. Should I put the other 36 on my rear?

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Yes, but consider putting them only on one half of the wheel so they have more apparent movement.

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Yep!

I think it’s a 1975, so the last year of the Huret rear dropouts with the 4:00 hanger stop location. I’ve had the dangler for a few years now but only just now built a 120mm freewheel wheelset for it.

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I love this dedication to reenactment! Have you posted the whole bike?

See you in PYB.

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Nice. I had a Grand Record (circa 76), which was my first good bike.

Swapped out the Big Bens on the Lorry for the winter tires because of some potential overnight snow. Trying a Schwalbe studded in the front and a Conti top contact winter in the back. Felt good on the test ride and that bike feels so small and light now compared to muscling around the Boost for the last couple of rides.

For some reason I have the opinion that those super light hurets are really nice. Where did I form that opinion? I’ve never had one.

I expected it to have vague shifting feel, but I’ve found it quite easy to make smooth accurate shifts. Helps that the shift levers are long. Lever throw from the 14-16 cog is big, but that coiled stainless housing is very flexible. After the cable puts some tension on it the rest of the shifts are very consistent.

I also generally abhor drivetrain noise, but the soft little tick tick tick of the chain rollers hitting the smooth tension pulley is quite charming!

you’re one of the internets best bike stylists atmho

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I also did the rims

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Paint marker? Clear coat?
Can i bite this?

Paint pens. No clear coat. Sure, just post it here.

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