Installed a threadless headset and fork, waiting on spacers to show up
I remembered to put the rubber cover thing on the hose before I hooked it up but when I went to slide the rubber bit up, I realized that it was on backwards. durrrrr
I tightened a barrel adjuster 1/2 turn while out riding my xtracycle today and it solved my shifting issue I’ve been having for a month and haven’t done anything about.
Goddann newborn babies make motivation difficult.
Took the day off work just because and removed almost all the remaining e-bike parts from the Lorry. Left the e-bike lights installed and tidied up those wires a bit. Still need to remove the torque sensing bottom biscuit, just need to find a replacement first.
Continued the day off dither yesterday on the road bike. Replaced a definitely recalled Ultegra crank (no cracks) with a newer Ultegra crank that has the possibility of being recalled in the future, and swapped out the road pedals to go back to SPDs and the 44cm Neoclassics for 42cm. Kinda wishing I’d done the sickos thing I was thinking of and put on a square taper crank and biscuit instead.
Got my Stein Stronglight puller in today so I could finally see what I needed to do BB wise for this track bike.
HY 42mm chainline with chainstay clearance on the first try!
I feel like @igor needs to reissue these as a gravel compact with 24mm spindle in shortways. that spider is pretty
Or 49d shaped chainrings in practical sizes and with ramps and pins that could fit the existing 50.4bcd cranks. His 46/30 rings shift so well.
my experience with very similar era sugino cranks with an 11s 135 spacing drivetrain allowed for frame clearance issues, chain/crank arm clearance issues, or a little of each. i would very much love a modern equivalent, even if less offensively light
New comfort sticks on the bikepacking bike. Also bled both brakes. Replaced a rear rotor when I realised it was about 0.5 non freedom mm thick. New pre-loved seat-post, did not creak, a rare thing on my Cannondale, but, the B-17 did go all viagara on me on my ride. Needed more pressure on the extremely shallow seat rail clamping mechanism bolt. New handlebars on the same bike. They look so stupid with the rise, inverted the stem to compensate. Its almost impossible to find flat alloy bars. Took my flat carbon ones off cos scared of them breaking in an off, with the aeros on.
Received 3 pairs of sram hoods from Ali express. Screw paying 80$ for them over here. Prepped a gen 1 sram road shifter for the dropper post hack for a buddy.
After buying the crank last night I started to get bothered about throwing money at the chain rub problem on the roadbike instead of trying to figure out WTH was causing it. Did a visual check of the pusher braze-on on that bike compared to both Problem Solver and IRD braze-on adapters to see if it was maybe further outboard than it should be and it seems fine. Measured the BB shell width at 67mm and wondered if maybe that was contributing and thought about pulling the crank and BB to see if the faces of the shell were symmetrical with respect to the seat tube (did not do this). Then, figured I’d give one more go to setting up / adjusting the R8000 pusher and now I’m not sure if:
- My brain is too smooth to deal with these pushers, or
- Shimano’s instructions for these pushers is not clear
(It’s probably both)
Seems like maybe there was too much cable tension in the system and shifting the lever down into the (v) position where the low limit adjustment is done / comes into play wasn’t moving the cage much. I thought the low limit screw was all the way backed out and it actually wasn’t. They say to adjust the low limit chain-cage clearance to 0-0.5mm at (v) which seems like it would definitely cause minor rubbing in position (w).
So I guess everything is fine even though I’m slightly annoyed at the unplanned crank purchase even though it’s a brand new crank and rings for only $45. I might just keep the rings and try to sell off the arms for cheap.
Can you just put a thin shim behind the bb cup or something? Seems like the tolerance is way too tight to warrant a whole new crankset. 0.5mm is almost just slop.
Sir, this is tarck.
I considered that after the shell width measured a little narrow. I couldn’t find any published BB shell tolerance info from Shimano like I’ve seen with Campy, maybe my search-foo was just bad, and figured that trying to readjust the pusher was the easiest thing to try first.
Then thinking through it a little more yesterday, I’ve had an R8000 pusher on another bike and didn’t run into this issue. Then I remembered that that bike was a 142mm rear with an 11-speed cassette, while this bike is a 130mm rear with an 11-speed cassette. The cranks on both bikes have a 43.5mm chainline. So it seems to make sense to me that there would be more angle to the chain in the lowest gear with the narrower rear spacing.
The crank might still get swapped someday. The R8000 crank looks neat sometimes and definitely scratches some complete group on a road bike itch for me, but also bonded cranks are kinda bullshit atmo and sometimes it looks dumb and a square taper might look better and might have a slightly greater chance of remaining in one piece.
square taper always looks best
I think 5 bolt looks best, but dgaf about square taper.
Spent a couple hours on the BMX at a paved pump track near SeaTac. Three days into owning this and I’ve gotten completely used to pumping, jumping, blasting through big berms, floating the rear end over big rollers, and airing out of quarters again. Stuff that felt so awkward when I tried it on the MTB.
My arms are fuggin jelly though, holy shit
for campy that’s because the bearing is floating in the shell except for the wavewasher mildly preloading it if in spec, and really needing it to be oversized a little
for shimano it’s irrelevant
Removed the torque sensing BB on the Lorry over the weekend, but the UN54 in the bin has one of those chainline stabilization collars on the drive side and prevented the arm from fully seating on the taper. That hasn’t worked so well for me in the past. The bike will get a shorter crank anyway to get it prepped for sale, and an Alivio T4060 seems cheap enough and can use an external BB already in the bin, so I swapped out the crank and BB for the external BB and an old XT crank until I get around to buying the Alivio thing or something else used/cheaper at the bicycle collective.
That park also has singletrack and a disk golf course.