Oh, haha. I’ve had this frame for years now, since whenever the newer/current gatherers shipped out.
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After several days of waffling about whether to do flat mount, iso mount, or post mount on the emergency randonneuse I finally bit the bullet and started tacking post mounts onto the fork.
One post mount, which I can use to help locate the second one, and when that’s done make up a proper post mount jig so I can put post mounts on the rear triangle. sigh It doesn’t really help that it’s pretty cold outside and I have approximately 7 million excuses to stay in where it’s warmer.
(I bought a handful of these pretty silver Hayes calipers on ebay a few years back, so it’s time to use them up.)
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My bike room is also cold AF and I get like 30 min tops before my fingers go numb
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Coil boi now.
Edit: got a stand… nitrile gloves… and didn’t have to swear at all mounting the shock. I might as well be a real mechanic. Also put in a new chainring.
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I always swear because I bought the wrong eyelet bushings.
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New wheelset day for my Jamis!
These “Grade B” wheels look brand new to me. Thought I was getting a 6 pawl freehub but there’s a ratchet system in there. Tubeless valve stems and spare spokes included.
Also these were supposed to be the older generation 20mm internal but they’re 22mm.
Decided to go tubeless on these. GP5k ASTR I could put on without tire levers, and they seated with a floor pump with the valve core installed. Never ridden road tubeless before but this set up so easily I think it will be perfectly fine.
In all, with 60ml of Stans in each tire vs the tubes I used in the old wheelset I dropped 427g in wheel system weight.
Didn’t even have to adjust my brake calipers.
Now it just needs to not be freezing outside so I’m motivated to see how they ride! I might need to see what I can do about quieting down this freehub though. It’s a bit aggressive.
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Fixing up the double Crosstrek (tandem) some more. Pulled off the analog odometer and replaced the decaying tubes and skinny tires with some lovely 32mm Panaracer TServ I had laying around. I bet I could fit 38mm under threse fenders. This British bike from 1975 is such a weird mix of metric and imperial hardware.
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Ordered a stupid left hand thread pedal tap and chased a stupid left hand thread crank arm. Didn’t realize these were imperial until I ordered it. Why do bikes have such terrible mix of units?
Put a tube in the Cannondales f700’s UST wheel/tire which was still holding air. Great system. Put a new derailleur on the f700 to try to solve the shifting issue. Tweaked the bearings in my 2x auto hub on the DBR to stop chain sag when back pedalling. Made progress but still had more play than I’d like. Eventually took the whole wheel off to replace it with a single speed wheel with the 3x on the front. Feels good but missing top-end and 800 grams lighter. Pulled stem up on plastic road bike. Pumped up tires on plastic and steel road bikes.
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I de-built two old wheels that were deep in a closet. I totally forgot that I had these fancy hubs gathering dust! The hoard provides! Maybe the 1x1 should be a mullet.
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Did some work on SUPs bike yesterday. They wanted to learn about how things worked, so we swapped a seatpost, tires, and drivetrain.
Swapped an alloy seatpost, RD-M610 RD & 10 speed 11/34 cassette and 32mm Schwalbe Spicer tires with a Salsa Guide carbon post, RD-M7000 & 11-46 cassette, and 35mm Goodyear Connectors that I got from a friend.
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Helping my friend rebuild his stolen Spec AWOL. We started on the hydro brakes yesterday. Did I mention I HATE hydros?
I sourced him a nice 105 R7000 kit used online. I didn’t do my research and found out you can’t really convert flat mount brakes to PM frames very well (just the other way). Luckily I had a few IS/PM hydro brakes sitting in my box so we just swapped for his flat mounts. Both the R7000 shifters and the relatively low end Shimano IS/PM brake calipers still had the included nut so I just had him purchase a pair of Jagwire hydro “sport” kits that came with the “MTB” hose nuts. Each also came with a pair of barbs and olives. I checked Jagwire’s site and they use the same olive no matter if you buy the “shimano road” or “shimano MTB” kits.
Well wouldn’t you know it for the life of us we couldn’t get the olive in the caliper far enough to engage the threads on the nut. Could barely get it in far enough on the shifter too, but just managed. So off to the LBS to buy a very expensive shimano BH90 barb and olive instead. Luckily the BH90 stuff was compatible with the Jagwire sport hose, took a gamble on that vs the BH59.
Double checked everything after and I only see one type of olive from Jagwire for Shimano brakes so I have no idea what else we were supposed to do. Didn’t even get around to filling/bleeding the brakes, which I am awful at.
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Swapped the Pike for a Lyrik on the Phantom. Hopefully it’ll work better for my huge, fat ass until I become merely a huge ass.
Swapped the Maxxis DHF 2.5’s for Schwalbe Nobby Nic and Wicked Wills in 2.4. I even did the smart thing and got the Super Trail for better pinch flat resistance so I can lower pressures a bit.
Genuinely curious if I’ll feel the difference in rolling resistance / weight since I’ve knocked off about a pound from the wheels and have a faster tread.
Hoping the weather holds tomorrow for me to test this + the 165mm cranks to see how it’s all shaking out.
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Not even once.
I couldn’t stand looking at the black stem/silver bat combo so I replaced the stem, not sure if it’s actually an improvement.
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It’s tough to find a perfect match. Same issue with anodizing, some colors are impossible to match even with the same brand.
I know the blasted matte finishes are theoretically more durable but prefer the smooth ones currently, comparing a nicely finished Easton Haven to a Zipp service course was a bit sad
