Something seems amiss there. My Jones with the stock crank/BB/0mm offset ring from the complete bike measures around 53-54mm for chainline.
Not to be a downer, but also check the spoke tension on the front wheel. Mine was uneven enough that it made noise until I retensioned it.
Will doāthanks. Makes me wonder if the cranks werenāt torqued down. Guess itās time to check everything.
What cranks. Could be some spacer fuckery. Nevermind. Some Jones OEM jawns. I bet itās either spacers in the wrong spot or just not tight.
Damn why even buy a jones if Mystery Jeff isnāt gonna do a once-over on your bike himself and make sure your rotors are gigantic. And then call you at 11pm.
Iāve talked to Jeff when I was considering a Jones. Why not call?
Both arms are torqued down according to spec.
Each side has one spacer (assuming 2.5mm since shell is 68mm).
Iāll give Jones a call tomorrow.
Can you flip the chainring?
Itās zero offset.
Re-measured chainline and got 55mm.
is that spacer behind the DS BB cup necessary? removing that would get you into acceptable 1x boost chainline territory. Or, buy a 3mm offset ring.
Yeah, Iām thinking of moving the spacer to the NDS side (or getting a -3mm chainring).
Pretty sure you donāt need spacers on both sides of the BB right?
Did your bike come one spacer on each side of the BB shell?
Yep, that BB looks like mine.
Iāll take the chain off and double double check that measurement tonight. Mine wonāt be exact exact since it has the EBB shell so there will be a slight difference if that is slightly off to one side or the other (but it didnāt look obviously misaligned last night).
Really appreciate itāthanks.
Thatās a chainline for a 157 mm hub. Looking at the specs on Jonesā site, you might have a 148 mm hub? That would need a 53 mm chainline, typically.
Yeah, mine is 148. Iām going to either move the spacers around or pick up an offset chainring.
Mine measures 54.0mm to the tip of a narrow tooth (31.95 ST diameter, ~38.08 ST to tooth).
I measured about 6mm between the tire and the chain in the largest cog on my LWB, same drivetrain as you just bought with the stock Jones aluminum rims and T-Fatty tires.
I put some parts I had lingering in the shed onto my kids bike so she is ready for commuting to work this summer and at UW in September. I wonder how long it will take to get stolen on campus.
Hot take from the trenches: MTB chainlines are all off by at least 3mm or so of offset and usually to make room for swing arm design near the bottom bracket.
Iāve always found that a non-boost ring runs better on a boost bike if it clears.
I think the ācenterā of the cassette for chainline should actually be 1 or 2 cogs lower than true center to improve chain articulation in the really big cogs where it matters.
Boost was developed when a 42 or 46t largest cog was still the standard and I suspect would have gone a different way if 51/52 was already in circulation.
The creation of superboost supports this as Pivot said point blank itās there to improve chainstay and lower link stiffness.
