What did you do to your crosscheck today?

My rear wheel had at least two broken spokes and the tire was roached. I got three rear and one front flat this week.

So I made a whole new wheel with a brand new tire and rotor and brake pads.

These rotors seem weird to me. Does this seem sus?

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They look alright, at least based on my several months ago study of counterfeit RT70 rotors. Yours, while clearly made in China, has the proper finishing on the rotor-to-spider rivets among other common tells like font, finish, etc.

Number 1 thing to check is the weight, while there are counterfeit ice-tech rotors with the same actual materials and design, they’re still significantly heavier than spec.

Does it have the verification QR code on the package?

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I was mostly surprised to see five spider arms on the box and four on the rotor.

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I bet it varies by size— that box looks like it used for multiple rotor sizes

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Box looks legit to me on closer inspection. I’m not clickin’ the QR though.


Shimano’s site shows actual product pictures for each size, with the 140 and 160mm sizes having four arms:

https://bike.shimano.com/products/components/pdp.P-RT-CL700.html

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Finally got around to installing the fish cage on the kid’s bike

I wish I could actually ride the thing and make sure it all works OK before she heads back to school.

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New bars on Snowaguchi, trying the new Teravail all-road bars in 48cm. I’m riding this bike 90% on the road or flat dirt/gravel now anyway, so the gigantic flared Cowchippers made less sense.

It took almost a half hour to get the old tape off. It’s by BURGH, and the adhesive is far stronger than the cork tape or the thin outer coating, so it’s a total mess. Not pleased with that.

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Installed a new shock. Almost didn’t take the linkage apart and clean everything but am glad that I did. Center pivot bolt on the Maestro link was loose!

I swear something is a bit misaligned on this bike, the trunnion is super difficult to get the fine thread bolt started on the second one you install. Found some light wear on the damper body of the shock that I removed, so I really need to block out a full day and dig in to it. Maybe do some spacer measuring & possible modifications to get everything happy.

Installed a shorter stem


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I’m hoping to be able to ride a bike in a couple of weeks so I swapped in the flat pedals, put on some fenders and installed the OMM Elkhorn with a Wald basket and a bag from Jim. I’m sad about the extra weight but excited about the utility!

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new skeleton brakes for spooky season, plus concave/rounded DT cable stops

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Thank mr skeltal

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oh i been doin stuff:

-put the non-damaged XR2 on the back of the jones, installed XR4 up front, re-milked tires, installed XL ESI grips because XXLs were a tad too long and i have another idea for them instead of trimming them to size.
-dynaplug’d rear teravail tire on Mone, remilked both.
-Oury grips on jr. pears’ trek 8000
-700x32 tires on mrs. pears’ salsa casserole because the 40s were too big.
-put mystery 40s on squid so-ez, along with a collection of parts that i dont care about (dedicated “this hurts the least when stolen” bike in my stable now)

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post the so-ez

oh i get it now

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Bro MILKING?

Jokes aside I switched to XL on my Jones too instead of XXL and I prefer it a lot. I still like the XXL on my Redline though.

pretty sure i got milking from tarck so it is the fault of this place and not my own.

with two clamps being used on each side it seems like the XLs were made for this. maybe theyd work with in a SS no dropper situation but even then they feel plenty long.

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i will once i put a chain on it, so some time in 2027 probably.

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Yeah I’m writing a blog post about it at this very moment but basically I find the XXLs work great on the Redline both because it’s fixed gear with just a brake on each side, and that bike handles better choking up on the Jones bars a bit. Whereas the my LWB both has 2 clamps on each side (2 brakes + dropper + shifter) and handles better all the way back.