Full build is DT Swiss 350 with Sapim 2.0/1.6 up front. 2/1.8 in the rear. I29 kom rims. Trail boss rear tire and vigilante front. The tires went on with just a regular floor pump without sealant. Then I let the air out and put in sealant. Wtb rim tape as well. Just got it all in one order.
quotes within quotes don’t show original poster tho? guess you can use the up arrow to see that
They can but you have to select it weird. Or discourse broke it in the latest update. It’s easier to do on desktop.
Welp, did all the advice in this thread. Nothing has improved.
I have, beyond a shadow of a doubt, narrowed it down to the front wheel by switching bikes and wheels around.
Guess I have to take it in. They’ll probably want me to have it rebuild
Is there any chance that the pinging you’re hearing in your front wheel is coming from some material trapped in the rim? It’s pretty unlikely, but it’s a source of noise from a wheel that you wouldn’t be able to fix with spoke tension adjustments.
Is the brake track badly worn? Is it possible that the rim is verging on a nonlinear performance event?
They’re fairly new archetypes so i’m pretty sure the brake track is good.
I’d be real surprised if there was something inside the rim, they’ve never been re-taped and this noise only started last month.
I had a pingey-sounding cartridge bearing failure on a front wheel. It went from infrequent to very frequent in about 3–4h of riding. Jetwashed it to death.
Yeah, just tossing out probably wrong ideas because the present attempts at solution haven’t yielded much. What kind of weather seal does the hub have?
Not much, they’re loose-ball shimano 600 hubs.
what’s the go-to rim width for 2.4 to 2.8" tires? 35 internal? I see a lot of 30 internal rims out there on mtbs these days but 35 seems to make more sense.
I think 35 is gonna be comfortable in that range. That’s what I’ve got on my Ibis. Much narrower and those 2.8s are gonna feel a little squirmy, though a 30mm internal width isn’t going to be too bad in that regard. Really any wider and you’re going to be flattening out the tread of some (Maxxis) 2.4s too much.
Honestly, some 2.3s that are actually 2.1s (Maxxis) just won’t work on my rims, but they make the 2.5" WT versions now, which are basically the size of Schwalbe 2.35" tires but with sweet, sweet Maxxis tread.
So, 35 if you’re going to be leaning more towards the plus tires, 30 if you think you’ll mostly be using non-plus tires. But honestly, either would be fine if there is a sweet rim or wheelset you come up on.
Finding more in 30mm tbh. And I’d probably never use a 2.8” tire either. So maybe 30 is the way to go to score a sweet deal.
I went with i29 koms for 2.6 tires because it was right in the middle of the recommended range for 2.6 tires from both stans and WTB.
I would consider i35 if I was going to use 2.8-3.0 but I am probably not because they weigh a ton. There are less rim options. and I just don’t weight enough to really need that much butter under me.
Has, anyone heard of it these guys? Is it Light bicycle wheels that are recommended ?
Happy LB customer here
Building a set of LB Recons for a customer. Really impressed by them. Don’t require a nipple washer but I’d probably put washers on them for a personal build.
Next up are Onyx to 3T Discus Plus hoops -
After that is a DT240 to FFWD gravel set.
Shit. Too many wheels.
don’t forget to get stickers for the swiss hubs
I’m at the point where I 350 all of the round things.
i’m either full 350 or dyno front
speaking of cheap dt: which star ratchet upgrade is worth it?
