Rando bros exist?
have you seen a thing called Instagram?
That’s a young people thing right? Need photographic evidence
[quote=Blakey]M737 uses a 107mm spindle to get a 47.5mm chainline (I believe), not much room to move to lower chainline / Q beyond a 103mm spindle for 2mm inboard movement.
Ritchey Logic compact 94/58 has the same issue, I have a Token ISO 102mm BB on mine to go inboard as far as possible.
A SRAM S952 crankset with an X0 GXP 104/64 spider (part#: 11.6115.551.000) is a very nerdy way to get an 11sp disc brake chainline nerd-crank setup. Q150
Or an XX1 crankset in 120/80 or 104/64. Q156 model.
For a ‘road/caliper’ chainline, look at S900, Force1/Force22 (carbon), Rival1/Rival22 (C-section forged* alu), S950 (carbon) plus the X0 spider (104/64 has much cheaper rings than 120/80)
I believe the guidance is “X0 spiders fit any crank, X9 don’t fit anything else.” and BB30 spiders are different to GXP spiders.
Other nerd crank options from my archive:
Easton EC90 spiderless plus “gravel rings” in 47/32 or 46/30.
The FSA adventure is boat anchor heavy in Tempo square taper, Omega uses garbage 19mm spindle, and 30mm spindle / BB386 in the lighter versions like SL-K. proprietary chainrings and weird BCD by the looks.
Praxis offer a 46/32 with their special rings on 110BCD Alba/Zayante models (and others now?)
Rotor offer 46/30 rings for their cranks.
Compass / Rene Herse (square taper $$$)
White Industries VBC (square taper or 24mm, MU$A)
IRD Defiant Compact (square taper, uggo)
Sugino OX601D and OX 901D (24mm, best chainring flexibility)
90s 58/94 BCD mountain cranks from Ritchey and Suntour that were designed for 120mm bottom bracket widths but run on 103 or 107mm BBs. There were a few Shimano ones too but they usually used shorter spindles. (also weirdo octalink &/or spiderless XT/XTR stuff)
TA Carmina / Vega with a 94, 94/58 or 104/64 spider. ISO taper BB. Pretty! 155-185mm lengths. 150mm Q. $
Velo Orange Grand Cru (TA Cyclotourist clone)(square taper),
Velo Orange forthcoming something in the works like the OX901 style.
Cycles Toussaint Luxe (another TA clone)
Sugino PX (TA clone)
Sun XCD Exceed (same as Luxe?)
Middleburn (lots of options, $$$, going out of business?)
Shimano Metrea can have the chainguard removed and small ring replaced with a small XT ring, 30T etc, wide Q and Tiagra weight though, and not that cheap
Stronglight Lexar 2x10 is interesting, hollow arm aluminium 104/64, unknown BB and Q though.[/quote]
Well I kind of did it using what I already had, CX50 Crankset, 46 Outer 33 Inner and 42 Cassette. Tempted to try out different options but that 33t chainring is pretty close gear ratio wise.
Installed an old Thunder Burt tubeless, sealant found 3 major leaks on the rear tread. Do I leave it on and see if the sealant fills the holes, add more sealant and air? Or get a new tyre?
Just put the punctures on the ground so the sealant can pool there and see if it holds. I bet that it will.
You: Big colorful tarck sticker. I saw you on a Spicy Curry
Me: Big Beautiful Blue Bullitt
I have a big empty spot for you to live where all the cargobros and messbros parents of toddlers can enjoy your pretty colors as I’m parked in front of the many hip dive bars, punk shows, crits, alleycats grocery stores and play parks in lovely Euroland
i think i have a big tarck sticker that would fit, pm yr address
Cos I dumb, for a split second I thought you’d seen me riding around. Pretty sure I would’ve notice being stalked by a bright blue Bullitt…
The 8mm self extracting bolt on my sram cranks is not working. It just spins and spins without pushing the cranks off. Tell me how to take these off!
EDIT: I see there is a larger 16mm hex further out from the self extracting. I think that’s what keeps the self extractor in the crank itself. I don’t have a 16mm at home because I don’t work on european monster trucks.
Honestly I’ve made it work stuffing two 8mm in there, or equivalent addition of wrenches.
Is the 8mm turning the extractor?
Yeah, the 8mm turns the self extractor. But the threads are stripped. How do I know this? Well because I had stripped a couple of threads on it a while back and knew it was kinda on its last legs. I figured they’d strip fully during the next install, not on a removal. Because I’m not smart.
holy shit it worked. I taped a 10mm and 6mm together.
my kind of mechanicing
Well I still cant get the cranks off. So looks like I’m walking to my shop tomorrow (like 4 fucking miles) to use the little 3 legged pulling tool. God dammit.
you could maybe apply penetrant and carefully lever a screwdriver behind the crank arm, working around it, also tapping the arm interface outward with a mallet. Worth trying before you hoof it.
Aluminum bolt, right? Get it out somehow, clean the threads of the spindle and install a new bolt. Then pull the arm off with the new one.
Threads are fucked everywhere.