5’ drops to flat, break dropout, warranty, flip for profit
The stoke from making someones month/year is worth way more than the stress of selling it and a coupla fractions of a bong… and way way more than paying to build up a bike you dont need.
Masi is giving me this bike in a size 49 for a sponsored trip and Ortleib is giving me bags to equip it with. They need to know what size seat bag, frame bag, and handle bar bag to order for me. I have no clue how to figure it out.
Bike is being built next week, so I don’t have it in front of me to measure. Thoughts on sizes?
[quote=capn_pants]Masi is giving me this bike in a size 49 for a sponsored trip and Ortleib is giving me bags to equip it with. They need to know what size seat bag, frame bag, and handle bar bag to order for me. I have no clue how to figure it out.
Bike is being built next week, so I don’t have it in front of me to measure. Thoughts on sizes?[/quote]
Top Tube (Effective) of 49cm = 520mm minus 30mm (40mm if you want to be conservative) = 490mm
FRAME-PACK M width = 40cm
FRAME-PACK L width = 50cm
FRAME-PACK TOPTUBE width = 50cm
Frame bags should stretch a little, I’d go with FRAME-PACK M but if you want to YOLO and they are giving you the bags go FRAME-PACK L.
Bar Width on 49 cm = 40cm. HANDLEBAR-PACK S is 40cm so you probs need 44cm or 46cm handlebears since biek comes with Claris R2000
SEAT-PACK L - looks like a parachute pack get the SEAT-PACK M
Basically avoid doing this:
Jebus that seat pack is giant.
Will a FC-U5000 Outer Chainring - 46T work with FC-m8000 double crankset? (The outers are both 96 BCD)
If you do this, please report back
chainline 48.8, q-factor 176 though…
I think it’s 168 if you use the xtr instead of xt. In any event, q apparently doesn’t matter for some people, or wider q is better (I don’t know if you’re one of those people)
Guess I’ll have to try to find out
Chainrings are largely Q agnostic. Any chainline can be adjusted with spacers.
I’m assuming this is for some nerd crank setup? 46 to 22 is a pretty big throw. Are you going to use something bigger for the second ring?
46t - 28t or 44t -28t
SRAM road dick hydro levers mated to Guide RSC calipers?
How can I optimize this shifting situation:
5700 Shakes + 46/33 cranks + Tail Hook + Deore M591 9sp Dangler + 10-speed 11-42 Cassette
It works ok but not optimal, should I go this route:
5700 Shakes + 46/33 cranks + Smolf Tooth Tanpan + Deore M6000 10sp Dangler + 10-speed 11-42 Cassette
or concede defeat and do a full sram thing? I know it sounds horrible
Need more details on this suboptimalization?
Chain drops down a cassette tooth when back pedaling
There’s a 2 second delay around the 42 and 36 shift (up and down)
Slappy chain when going grav grav
Slappy chain in the rough is just a thing. Either shift into the big ring when going down, or invest in a clutch dangler.