YASSSSS THANK YOUUUU
I’m just shocked that it works well enough to be functional.
It’s just a funny-shaped mini-V
Well, we don’t know that.
x-post from effbuilding thread
[quote=crowding]The MA is higher than cantis with normal straddle yoke (that’s where the “force 40” name came from, supposedly 40% higher MA.) But not as high as a V-brake.
as it happens, it’s a good match for current STI levers that pull more cable[/quote]
It bugs the shit out of me that the pads don’t hit the rim at the same time.
a sign of a poorly set up brake.
is it possible to set up the above jammer well? it is a mystery
I intend to find out for myself at some point this week but how well does it work with recent-but-not-new shimano levers (i.e. 4500/4600), how well does it work period, and how close do the pads need to be to work well (looks like they are pretty well away from the rim in the gif, but how is the lever travel with that?)
I love the stopping power of my mini-v’s (90mm arm) but without a travel agent they need to be so close that a puddle of dirty water can cause a nasty scraping sound that doesnt slow you down but drives you nuts. The 84mm mini-v’s I’ve worked on are a bit better in that regard, but still not the answer I’m really looking for.
God I keep scrolling back up. It looks like an amputated limb. Phantom brake syndrome.
The tektro 926al are awesome at 80mm.
I have these on two bikes, I have a really hard time setting the rim/pad distance and the return spring tension to be equal between both arms. Is there a good trick?
Grease the area where the spring contacts the arm.
Backed. loved them on my casseroll, and somehow it worked with fenders underneath.
Doesn’t look like ec90 fork and 8.4s play with fenders well. Really, the fork doesn’t do fenders well on its own.
race cross frames don’t play well with fenders. who’d a guessed it?
They are not really different from other brakes. Grease the posts; set the spring tension high if things are sticky; bend the springs for gross adjustments; set the housing the right length so it doesn’t push one arm around.
Right, to answer the OP. It’s called shartlife now.
This is the one irksome thing, it doesn’t hardly self center. Think it’s down to the acute angle the straddle makes with the brake arm, plus static friction in the pulley. No effect on performance to I resolve to ngaf
is an 11 speed campy crankset alright with 10 speed bits? if so, 10 or 11 speed chain?
yes, and chain should match cassette
This is the one irksome thing, it doesn’t hardly self center. Think it’s down to the acute angle the straddle makes with the brake arm, plus static friction in the pulley. No effect on performance to I resolve to ngaf[/quote]
That’s surprising. When I used such cursed brakes I found this to contribute to squealing under hard braking.
I have a c-record crankset with 7mm self-extracting bolts and a 7mm allen wrench. Is it possible for me to apply the 32-38Nm of torque that’s specified for it, or should I take it to someone competent?