This is what I’m looking at going into its fourth winter of near-daily use.
Seems like an inner tube for a boot would be a good idea?
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After knocking off all the rust and spraying with a rust inhibitor
McMaster also sells stainless ball joint rod ends so you could swap one of those in and just not worry about it.
I would definitely do that if my adhd brain weren’t incompatible with the McMaster website.
I still worry about the linkage rod itself rusting out. The paint is starting to bubble and crack.
Idk if this is the correct part, but omnium sells a replacement for $49. Not too bad
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This is the part. Pricy and not super easily attained in the USA.
https://www.larryvsharry.com/en/steering-arm-complete-w-ball-joint-1
Feels like something splendid cycles could help with maybe?
Oh yeah, I could get one if I wanted but it’s more complicated than just clicking “buy”.
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knock back the loose paint, sand about an inch past the flaked paint, paint with a zinc-rich primer spray paint, then overcoat that with whatever color you want. Do this before adding stainless ball-joint as the galvanic couple from stainless could exacerbate the corrosion.
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Clearly rusty here needs some zinc anodes
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tarklebee for nominative determinism
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gotta get the carry-shit olympics numbers up.
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OK, now I’m reading on the Bullitt website that the steering linkage should be replaced every five years? Maybe I should just buy a new one.
Complete steering arm assembly, with articulating machined aluminium attachment, steel arm and complete with rubber covered balljoint. Should be replaced every 5 years.
Just pack it with salt to keep it dry and wrap it with gorilla tape
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The steering linkage is definitely the weakest point in the system but also remember it really doesn’t take that much stress if it is well designed. The biggest danger is if the linkage system allows the linkage to cross over and pull the fork beyond the intended limits. I am no suspension understander but it happened to me on an overloaded omnium.
I had probably 250lb on the omnium and was trying to lock it up. The platform tilted a bit causing the front wheel to turn and start to roll. When it started to tip the steering moved in a way that the linkage under the steering column crossed over the midway point (look up a photo for reference). This then pulled the fork beyond the designed endpoint of steering and snapped the heim joint at the threads.
We replaced it with a beefier am that could support larger heim joints and welded a steering/bump stop to keep the fork from over-rotating again. It’s my understanding that Jumbo has since corrected this design but taking a glance at some photos I can’t be too sure.
I also just went out and fucked with my bullet and because of the steertube linkage double arm I don’t think it’s possible for it to occur on a bullet.
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Yeah, it doesn’t happen on the Bullitt.
The Omnium is scary with that.
I noticed it when I was putting mine together and thought I’d installed the linkage wrong.
Nope, turns out they just designed it wrong.
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IF you were to consider using some form of cargo skeleton for an open-ended travel-dither that might also lead you into central and South America…
GO: (what ~3 skeletons would you consider)
Would you be driving or bike touring?
I’d get a big dummy if I wanted to do a long cargo bike tour.
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big dummy, or if you’re driving for part of it one of the acoustic tern cargobikes